Timing Belt Replacement - Camry / Avalon / ES 300 / Sienna / RX 300 / Solara - V6 - MZFE

The Toyota MZFE engine is either a 3.0 or 3.3 liter, timing belt driven, 24 valve dual single overhead cam aluminum V6 design. This engine has been developed for use in many Toyota vehicles from 1994 to 2003. These include the Lexus ES300, RX300, and the Toyota Camry, Avalon and Solara. The 3.3 liter version was introduced as the 3MZFE. Most engine components in the 1MZFE are interchangeable with the 3MZFE including the timing belt. Up until the introduction of VVTI (Variable Valve Timing) technology, the engine's valve train were Non-Interference. This means that damage to either the valves or pistons will not occur if the timing belt were to brake during vehicle operation. The outlined timing belt replacement instructions can therefore be used on belts that have broken on non VVTI engines. Positioning the Camshaft Sprockets and the Crankshaft Pulley alignment marks to Top-Dead-Center (TDC) is all that is needed before the new belt is installed. A compression leakage test can be performed after belt installation to verify the integrity of the valves.

Allocate 3 or more hours for just a belt replacement. Paint marks on the belt where it meets the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys will eliminate a lot of grief if any of these pulleys were to move after belt removal and during new belt installation.

Tools

Impact Driver (Electric or Air Powered)

1/2" Breaker Bar (if no Impact Driver available used for Crankshaft Pulley Bolt removal)

1/2" & 3/8" drive Socket Wrenches

Metric Box Wrenches & Sockets

1/2" & 3/8" Wrench Extensions

Screw Drivers

Jack (Hydraulic or Scissor)

Standard Jack Stands

Japanese cars use the following metric sizes:

10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 21mm, 22mm

Needed Parts

Replacement Timing Belt

Timing Belt Cover Gasket (Optional)

Engine Control Rod - "Dog Bone" (Optional)

Belt Tensioner Idler Pulley (Optional)

Belt Guide Idler Pulley (Optional)

• Place transmission in Park, apply the parking brake and chock the rear wheels.
• Support the vehicle on a jack stands and remove the passenger side front wheel.
• Unbolt the Front Fender Apron Seal - passenger side.
• Unbolt the Crankshaft Pulley Bolt. Use a breaker bar secured to the ground or frame of the car if an impact driver is not available. "Thump" the ignition around 1 second. The tension on the bolt should be relieved as a result of the torque from the starter motor. If that doesn't work, applying heat to the bolt from a propane torch can help ... but be careful ... the oil seal can be damaged from too much heat. If the car has a weak battery, not enough amperage is available for the the starter motor to unbolt the pulley bolt. Additional amps can be had by jumping another battery from another car. As a last resort, find a friendly garage owner who'll torque the bolt off for you with their 180lbs air powered impact driver.
• Turn the engine clockwise to align the crankshaft pulley to the Top-Dead-Center (TDC) mark on the timing belt cover. Use a 1/2 drive socket wrench attached to the pulley bolt to ease engine rotation. Use a impact driver or do a quick twist of the socket wrench counter clockwise to spin off the crankshaft pulley without upsetting the alignment.
• Unbolt the crankshaft pulley.
• (Supplemental) - if your Power Steering Fluid has turned black, the fluid can be replaced with the timing belt replacement job. More fluid can be drained in lieu of draining from the reservoir. Remove the hose clamp and hose from the metal tube located below the crankshaft pulley. The majority of the fluid can be 'pushed' out by rotating the steering wheel to the left and right while the fluid is draining out. When completely drained, reconnect the hose and clamp.
• Loosen or remove the Power Steering Pump Bracket Bolt.
• With either a long metal or crow bar, apply pressure to the left side of the pump to relieve tension on the Power Steering Belt. Alternatively, a few light taps with a hammer on the power steering pump bracket behind the ps bracket will move the pump forward of the bolt and relieve tension on the belt.
• Loosen the tension on the Alternator Adjustment Locking Bolt.
• Relieve tension on the Alternator Pivot Bolt.
• Turn the Alternator Belt Adjustment Bolt counter clockwise until the alternator belt can be removed by pushing down on the alternator.
• Remove both the Alternator and Power Steering Pump Belts.

• Disconnect the Coolant Reservoir Hose from the Reservoir container.
• Disconnect the two engine ground wire connectors.
• Unbolt and remove the side engine mount.
• Remove the alternator bracket nut and bracket.
• Optional - Detach and move the power steering hose to the firewall.
• Unbolt and remove the lower timing belt cover.
• Unbolt and remove the upper timing belt cover.
• Unbolt and remove the side engine mount. Keep the one side engine mount long bolt in place while removing the mount.
• Remove the timing belt guide.

• Check that the camshaft alignment marks match the backing plate alignment marks. If not aligned, screw back in the crankshaft bolt and rotate the engine with a wrench until alignment is made.
• Optional - When alignment has been made, apply paint marks to the camshaft, crankshaft, backing plate alignment marks along with the timing belt. These will help with re-alignment problems if the crankshaft or camshafts were to move during belt installation.
• Unbolt the timing belt tensioner.
• Simultaneously twist the timing belt between the right camshaft and crankshaft -and- the right camshaft and left camshaft approximately 45 degrees. This will slightly move both camshafts clockwise to ease belt removal as well as new belt installation. A small amount of slack will now exist between both camshafts and the right camshaft with the crankshaft.
• Remove the old timing belt.

• Start by installing the new belt on the right camshaft using the paint line on the new belt. Prevent the belt from slipping off by using a spring loaded plastic alligator clip.
• Stretch the belt and slip the belt onto the left camshaft. Again, use the paint line on the new belt for alignment and use a plastic alligator clip to prevent the belt from slipping off.
• Guide the right side of the belt over the water pump and then position the belt on the crankshaft pulley cogs. There should be little to no slack when this is done. If so, the belt may be loose by one cog.
• While holding the belt in place over the crankshaft pulley with the right hand, use the left hand to slip the left side of the belt over the tensioner pulley.
• Bolt on the timing belt tensioner. Applying equal turns on each bolt will gradually compress the tensioner pin.
• Optional - At this point the car can be started to check for belt alignment. If the car misfires or the Check Engine light were to come on, turn off the car, connect the crankshaft pulley bolt and rotate the engine with a ratchet wrench to the alignment marks. Being off by one cog will cause an engine misfire. This is usually between the right camshaft and the crankshaft.
• Reverse the outlined instructions to reconnect removed components as outlined in the last thumbnail photo in this article.
• If the power steering fluid was drained, pour in new fluid and turn the steering wheel right to left to create suction. The fluid level should drop, add more fluid and repeat procedure until the fluid level has stabilized.