Toyota Camry 5SFE Engine Timing Belt, Water Pump & Seal Replacement
88
Introduction
The Toyota 5SFE motor is a 4 cylinder 2.2 liter timing belt driven double overhead cam engine design. This motor is commonly found in the Camry, Celica, MR2 and RAV4 from 1990 to 2001. The engine is a Non-Interference type meaning damage to either the valves or pistons is unlikely to occur if the belt were to ever brake during vehicle operation. The outlined instructions can therefore be used on belts that have broken. Positioning the Camshaft Sprocket and the Crankshaft Pulley for Top-Dead-Center (TDC) alignment is all that is needed for broken belt replacement.
Expect to spend approximately 3 hours for just a belt replacement. Replacement of the water pump (approximately 1/2 hour) and sprocket seals (approximately 1/2 or less per seal) can vary.
The belt replacement interval for the 5SFE engine is either 60,000 or 90,000 miles based on the year of vehicle manufacture. Perhaps the introduction of Highly Saturated Nitrile (HSN) Timing Belts adopted for used on Toyota vehicles raised the service interval. Also the time since last replacement should be considered as well. Belt replacement every 6 to 7 years is recommended if under the mileage threshold.
It is recommended that the two Idler Pulleys (one for belt tension and the other as a belt guide) be replaced with every belt change. If the bearings in any of the pulleys were to lose its lubricating properties, the pulley can either wobble placing undue stress on the timing belt or potentially seize guaranteeing belt failure. Worn bearings can be noticed by a pitched grinding noise during engine warm up. When whatever grease remaining inside the bearing lubricates the bearings through engine heat, the noise will disappear. This can be considered a warning to have the belt and bearings replaced as soon as feasible.
Although many dealerships and private service stations recommend Water Pump replacement with the Timing Belt, based on personal experience, the AISIN Water Pumps in Toyotas are very durable. If the coolant has been changed per manufacturer's recommended interval, and no hard mineral water used, the pump seals and bearings should last over 150,000 miles. This is based on personal experience with many 5SFE belt replacements jobs. However, the pump can be examined for wear and leakage after the Timing Belt Cover has been removed with the Timing Belt. Look for leakage from the weep hole, any chirping noise from the pump when the engine is running and any drag on the pulley when turned by hand after the timing belt has been removed.
On 5SFE engines with over 100,000 miles, there is a good possibility of oil seal wear for the Camshaft, Crankshaft and Oil Pump. The seals are inexpensive but can be time consuming to replace. If the leakage is very bad, oil will get on your Timing Belt which may cause pre-mature belt failure. Moreover, check the Side Engine Control Rod (commonly referred to as the Dog Bone) along with the front engine mount which dampens the the forward and backward flexing of the engine. The rubber vibration dampener has a tendency to dry rot and crack with age. A simple test is to 'blip' the engine with the transmission in gear while having your foot on the brakes. If the engine lifts up and settles back down, a new front mount may be in order. Replacement is simple and straightforward. Otherwise, the exhaust system's flex pipe may eventually crack leading to expensive repairs.
The cost of the belt and components can vary. For Japanese OEM parts: Mitsuboshi Timing Belt, Koyo Pulleys and Aisin Water Pump. Shop and compare prices including shipping costs for the best deals. The belt manufacturers Gates and Dayco, OEM suppliers for Car companies like Honda, are very good and their belts can be had for approximately $15. A Timing Belt Component Kit (Belt, Idle Pulley & Tensioner Pulley) around $50. Water Pumps ... around $30, Oil Seals ... around $5 each. The parts that comprise a Timing Belt Component Kit for the 5SFE is interchangeable with the following Toyota vehicles:
CELICA (1999)
CELICA GT (1987 - 1998)
CELICA GTS (1990 - 1992)
CELICA GTS SPORT (1990 - 1993)
CELICA ST (1987 - 1989)
MR2 (1991 - 1995)
RAV4 (1996 - 2000)
SOLARA (1999 - 2001)
For V6 Camry Timing Belt Replacement, go this link:
5SFE Motor
5SFE Timing Belt Component Diagrams for the Camry
 | Amazon Price: $17.68 |
 | Amazon Price: $29.49 |
 | Amazon Price: $41.10 |
 | Amazon Price: $47.11 List Price: $97.46 |
 | Amazon Price: $51.44 List Price: $117.99 |
 | Amazon Price: $16.14 List Price: $54.99 |
 | Amazon Price: $17.50 |
Tools & Parts Needed
Tools
Impact Driver
1/2 Breaker Bar (if no Impact Driver available)
1/2 & 3/8 Socket Wrenches, Box Wrenches & Sockets
Wrench Extensions
Screw Driver Set
Needle Nose Pliers
Hydraulic or Scissor Jack
Jack Stands
Most Japanese cars use the following metric sizes:
10mm
12mm
14mm
17mm
19mm
21mm
Parts Needed
Timing Belt
Idler Pulley (Belt Tensioner)
Idler Pulley (Belt Guide)
Gasket Maker or Seal
Water Pump (Optional)
Water Pump Gasket (Optional)
Camshaft Seal (Optional)
Crankshaft Seal (Optional)
Oil Pump Seal (Optional)
Timing Belt Cover Gasket (Optional)
Engine Control Rod (Optional)
 | Amazon Price: $63.71 |
 | Amazon Price: $63.58 |
Power Steering & Accessory Belt Removal
- Apply the parking brake, place transmission in Park and chock the rear wheels.
- Remove the passenger side front wheel and support the vehicle on a jack stand. (a)
- Remove the passenger side Front Fender Apron Seal. (b)
- If replacing the Water Pump, drain the coolant. (c)
- Remove the Crankshaft Pulley Bolt. If an impact driver is not available, use a breaker bar secured to the ground or frame of the car. "Blip" the ignition under 1 second. The torque from the starter motor should relieve the tension on the bolt. Applying heat to the bolt from a propane torch can help ... but be careful ... the oil seal can be damaged from too much heat. (d) If that doesn't work, your battery is probably not putting out the amperage the starter motor needs. To get the extra amps, jump the battery with another battery from another car. And if that doesn't work, find a friendly garage owner who'll torque the bolt off for you with their 180lbs air powered impact driver.
- Turn the engine clockwise to re-align the crankshaft pulley to the Top-Dead-Center mark on the timing belt cover. Using a 1/2 drive socket wrench attached to the pulley bolt eases engine rotation. A quick twist of the socket wrench counter clockwise will spin off the crankshaft pulley without upsetting the alignment.
- *Addendum - if your Power Steering Fluid is pitch black, the fluid can be replaced with the timing belt replacement job. It will only add a few minutes to your work time. Just remove the hose clamp and hose from the metal tube located below the crankshaft pulley. Most of the fluid can be 'pushed' out by rotating the steering wheel to the left and right while the fluid is draining out. Reconnect the hose and clamp when completed.
- Loosen the Power Steering Pump Adjustment Bolt. (e)
- With a long or crow bar, apply pressure to the left side of the pump to relieve tension on the Power Steering Belt. (f) If that doesn't work, a few light taps with a hammer on the ps pump bracket behind the locking bolt will move the bracket forward of the bolt and relieve tension on the belt.
- Disconnect the Ground Strap Connectors. (g)
- Relieve tension on the Alternator Adjustment Locking Bolt. (h)
- Relieve tension on the Alternator Pivot Bolt. (i)
- Turn the Alternator Belt Adjustment Bolt counter clockwise until the alternator belt can be removed. (h)
- Remove the Alternator and Power Steering Pump Belts.
- If replacing the Water Pump, remove the Alternator Bracket Bolt and remove the bracket (j). Remove the Cam Shaft Position Sensor Wire Clamp with Needle Nose Pliers and pinch off the connector by squeezing and pulling with finger tips.
 | Amazon Price: $38.69 List Price: $71.65 |
Engine Mount and Timing Belt Cover Removal
- Support the engine by placing a wooden block between the oil pan and hydraulic jack. (k)
- Remove the 3 bolts from the Engine Control Rod. (l) Examine the condition of the Control Rod for dry rot and cracks. If worn, replacement is advised. Otherwise, the constant forward and backward movement of the engine may over stress the exhaust system's flex pipe and cause it to crack.
- Remove the 3 bolts from the Engine Mounting Bracket. (m) If there is difficulty removing the lower bolts due to clearance, a flat bar used for accessory belt removal can be used. (n)
- Remove the Upper Timing Belt Cover. (o)
- Remove the Crankshaft Pulley. If the Pulley cannot be pulled off (corrosion on crankshaft) use a puller tool or place 2 flat bars opposite each other and attempt prying lose. (p)
- Detach the Camshaft Position Sensor Wire Clamp (r) assuming that it has not already been done to remove the Alternator Bracket for a new Water Pump. Use Needle Nose Pliers to pinch off the Wire Clamp and and use finger tips to pinch off the connectors.
- Remove the Lower Timing Belt Cover with the Crank Shaft Position Sensor. This will eliminate the need to detach the Wire Clamp from the cover. (q)
 | Amazon Price: $55.89 List Price: $89.95 |
 | Amazon Price: $50.55 List Price: $87.95 |
 | Amazon Price: $36.62 List Price: $79.95 |
Timing Belt / Oil Seal Replacement
Assuming the Camshaft and Camshaft are at Top-Dead-Center (TDC) alignment, apply paint alignment marks on both the Crankshaft and Camshaft and their back plates. (s)
Remove the the Tension Spring for the Tension Idler Pulley and remove the Idler Pulley Bolt from the Tensioner Idler Pulley and the Timing Belt. (t)
If replacing the Camshaft Seal, loosen the Camshaft bolt. The Camshaft can be held with a Pulley Holder Tool while relieving tension on the Camshaft Pulley Bolt. (u) DO NOT use the timing belt as a replacement for the Pulley Holder Tool. For additional room when working on the Cam Seal removal and replacement, the Power Steering Container's Supply Side Hose can be disconnected allowing the container with the return hose shifted away from the Camshaft Sprocket. (v).
Take care in not scratching any of a seal's metal contact surfaces. Wrap electrical tape on any tool used for seal removal or installation that can make contact with the shaft or the shaft's interior.
Remove the Camshaft Seal. Using a razor, making vertical cuts on the seal will ease seal removal with a screw driver. The tip of the screw driver can then 'bite' on the lip of the seal. Once the seal has been removed, apply grease to the new seal and press it in with your thumbs. The shallow edges of the seal can be pushed in with a blunt tool until the seal has been fully seated. Unfortunately there is no room to hammer the seal in with a Seal Press Tool. If replacing the Crankshaft Seal, remove the Crankshaft Timing Pulley to expose the seal. Apply the same method used for removing the Camshaft Seal or jam a thin tip screw driver into the seal then pry the seal out. Installation of the new seal can be performed with a round socket of the same seal diameter as a Seal Press Tool. The seal can be uniformly pressed back in by gently hammering on the Seal Press Tool. If replacing the Oil Pump Seal, remove the Oil Pump Pulley using the same method for removing the Camshaft Sprocket. If oil leakage is detected behind the pump, the oil pump rubber oil ring gasket should be replaced.
 | Amazon Price: $170.00 |
 | Amazon Price: $24.50 |
 | Amazon Price: $30.80 List Price: $37.58 |
 | Amazon Price: $36.24 List Price: $27.87 |
 | Amazon Price: $64.11 |
Water Pump Removal and Installation
- Remove the Water Pump. (w) If the Water Pump is leaking or the bearing seems worn,replacement is advised. Worn bearings can be detected when the gear is hand turned and appears to 'hang' or stop on specific spots during rotation. Remove the old gasket material on the engine block with a scraper tool or razor. When the pump is removed, some coolant will escape from the pump housing. Have some rags or towels nearby to wipe off the coolant on the block and pulleys.
- Apply water resistant gasket sealant on both side of the pump gasket, place the gasket on the new pump with the holes aligned. (x)
- Before or after installation of the new Water Pump, remove the Idler Pulley Belt Guide. (y) This is performed after the pump had been removed to prevent coolant from entering the Idler Pulley Bolt Hole and eliminating future bolt thread corrosion.
Timing Belt Installation
- Bolt on the 2 new Idler Pulleys. Position the Tensioner Idler Pulley downward towards the Camshaft to allow the most slack on the Timing Belt during installation. The Tensioner Idler Pulley Bolt need only be hand tight. (x)
- Install the new Timing Belt. Having plastic Alligator Clips and the Timing Belt Guide will ease the process. Position and slip the bent part of the belt over the Crankshaft Pulley. Slide on the Timing Belt Guide to prevent the belt from slipping off. From the right side of the engine, slip the belt over the Idler Pulley, Water Pump and over the Camshaft. If there is little slack on the belt, secure the belt in place over the Camshaft by attaching an Alligator Clip. Ensure there is no slack on the belt between the Crankshaft and Camshaft. Slip the left side of the belt over the Water Pump Pulley, the remainder of the Camshaft and then over the Tensioner Pulley. If paint marks were transcribed from the old belt to the old belt, there should be no alignment problems. *Note: If there is difficult placing the new belt on the right side of the engine, use a box wrench to move clockwise the camshaft sprocket 1/2 cog. Slip on the belt, secure the belt on the sprocket with a alligator clip and re-position the camshaft sprocket back to its old position.
- Attach the Tensioner Idler Pulley Tension Spring and loosen the Pulley bolt to allow the Pulley to pull in the left side of the belt.
- Remove the Belt Guide from the Crankshaft and screw on the Crankshaft bolt. Attach a 1/2" socket wrench and rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees 2 times to: 1. Remove any remaining slack on the left side of the Timing Belt. 2. Verify that the Crankshaft and Camshaft alignment marks are lined up correctly. (y) Remove the Crankshaft bolt and tighten the Tensioner Idler Pulley Bolt.
 | Amazon Price: $12.57 List Price: $24.99 |
Camshaft Seal
 | Amazon Price: $3.49 List Price: $5.79 |
Oil Pump Seal
 | Amazon Price: $2.64 List Price: $5.38 |
Crankshaft Seal
 | Amazon Price: $3.21 List Price: $4.99 |
 | Amazon Price: $58.99 List Price: $109.99 |
Remaining Re-assembly in the following order
- Belt Guide
- Lower Timing Belt Cover.
- Crankshaft Pulley and bolt. Apply grease to the Crankshaft to prevent corrosion. Torque to a minimum of 80 foot pounds.
- Upper Timing Belt Cover.
- Power Steering Pump w/hose. Replenish any lost fluid. Turning the Steering Wheel from left to right will help suck the new fluid back into your hoses and pump.
- Engine Mounting Bracket.
- Engine Moving Control Rod with Ground Straps.
- Alternator Bracket with Alternator. Attach Wire Clamps and electrical fitting.
- Power Steering Belt and Alternator Belts.
- Apply tension on the Power Steering Belt and tighten the lock bolt. (z)
- Turn the Alternator Belt Adjustment Bolt Clockwise to generate belt tension. Advisable to use a Belt Tension Gauge. (z1) Over torqued belts will wear out bearings. Tighten all Alternator bolts.
- Lock the Radiator Drain Plug and refill radiator.
- Attach the Fender Apron Seal.
- Mount the Wheel.
- Remove the Hydraulic Jack supporting the Engine block.
- Remove the Jack Stand.
- Start car for a minute. Add more coolant. Check all Fluids.
Other Camry DIY How To Articles
- Front Strut Replacement
- Rear Strut Replacement
- Front End Clunking - Motor Mount Replacement
- Transmission Fluid Service
- Spark Plug, PCV Valve, Head Gasket Service
- Power Steering Fluid Change
- Fuel Filter Replacement
- Radiator Replacement
- Rear Brake Shoe Adjustment
- Side View Mirror Replacement
- Fuel Door Spring Replacement
- Door Glass - Window Regulator Service
- Ball Joint Replacement
- Worn Tie Rod End Replacement
- Check Engine Light Service
- Headlight & Light Bulb Replacement
vote upvote downshareprintflag
- Useful (8)
- Funny (1)
- Awesome (5)
- Beautiful (2)
- Interesting
CommentsLoading...
Some of the glitches I've experienced when things don't go according to plan:
1. Rust buildup on the harmonic balancer where I have to use pulley removal tool.
2. Rust buildup on the alternator adjustment bolt threads where I can't relieve tension on the alternator belt without shearing the bolt. I remove the locking bolt that secures the adjustment bolt and leave the adjustment bolt alone.
3. The power steering pump won't rotate on it's hinge point. A little tap with a hammer on the bracket holding the locking bolt works it loose.
Lastly, I now recommend replacing the torque rod attached to the side engine mount. Seen too many go bad.
I tried to replace my
Oil PumpsSeal and removed the oil pump pulley using the same method you mentioned for the camshaft sprocket and it worked out fine. Thanks for the helpful information.
If replacing the Oil Pump Seal, remove the Oil Pump Pulley using the same method for removing the Camshaft Sprocket.
Spencer -
Glad everything worked out for you.
Well my water pump went on my 1992 toyota camery on my way to work I knew something was wrong when the heat in my car quit working. My mechanic changed the water pump and the timing belt but when I got the car back the heat is still not working right. It blows hot air when you hold your hand in frot of the vent but by the time it gets out in the car it is cold. It will never be hot enough to clear the windows in this cold weather here in PA. He said that he thought there was an air pocket in the line so he blew them out but it didnt get the air any hotter. He is stumped and gave me my car back. Do you have any ideas what could be wrong. My mechanic did a compression test to make sure no damage was done to the head gasket and he said that everything was registering at 150 (what ever that means) so thats why he went ahead and fixed the water pump. If anyone has any suguestions that would be great.
How do you lock the the crankshaft in order to torque the crankshaft pulley bolt down ?
I've not found an answer to this question in 10 how to's do this timinng belt job.
I cant even locate a damn locking tool that will fit the pulley on my 1998 ST204R.
The pulley has a recessed face with 4 3mm OD equedistant holes.
Toyota Heat Problem:
Could be a failed Water Temperature Sensor that's connected to the bottom of your radiator. This sensor is your secondary thermostat that works with your car's computer or ECU (Electronic Control Unit). Also, the normal operating temperature of the Camry is 180 to 190 degrees ... not 150. Did your mechanic change the mechanical thermostat during the water pump replacement?
Al Bashford,
If you don't have air powered tools, you can buy yourself an electric impact driver that puts out around 120 lbs of torque to tighten your pulley bolt. Harborfreight.com has it for around $50.
Another method is to find the opening or window to your transmission that exposes your flywheel. You can jam a larger screw driver or small crow bar into the teeth of the flywheel. This will prevent the crankshaft from moving when applying tightening torque to your crankshaft pulley.
or... You can buy a Crankshaft Pulley Holder Tool for around $50: OTC 4754 Crankshaft Pulley Holder Universal OTC Tools
or... Visit a local independent auto repair shop and ask them to torque the bolt down for you ... they'll probably do it for free.
Wow great blog!, Need to change the Rear main seal, cam and crank seals on my cousins car...Great write up!, just wish there were some pictures on doing the seals.
Cheers
- Ash
Sorry didn't see the pictures in the small links,
Great work mate, keep up the good blogs!
Awesome post! excellent and very detailed. thanks
hi, i'm glad someone posted this very hard to find info, thnx for the your help, i'm stock with removing the cranckshaft bolt, as i did not know about starting the car, i went with manual and it recomends to remove it with braker bar, silly,now i'm stock broke 3 1/2 extensions and the thing still there, my son holds to the flywheel wile i try to loose that bolt, it is normal tread right?? hope is not that kind of left tread means i have to loose it diferent way, to the left right?? renting an impact gun will loose it as i have an impact electric gun but is not too strong i guess, any help or suggestions?? thnx
Guillermo,
Some poeple would feel unconfortable doing this but if you want to have that crank bolt removed, go to a local garage and ask them to loosen it. They'll probably do it for fee.
hi hardlymoving,i'm not unconftable doing it myself, i like the challenge, i'm just want some other ideas, i will try tonite with a 3/4 braker bar and see what happens, i cannot move that car as i said i took apart the rest of parts and now i want to complete the job, removing that bolt is my challenge now, i want to ask too, if i removed all parts can i still crancked with the starter? i removed damaged timing belt , with out it will it turn and lose the bolt? tha would be my last atemp, before i want to try the 3/4 bar and see, what do you think?
Guillermo,
If I understand you correctly, you want to be able to move the crankshaft after removing the pulley bolt and pulley? If yes, you can re-install the pulley bolt AFTER you removed the pulley and belt cover for the purpose of turning the crankshaft to align the timing marks. Removing the spark plugs will allow easier turning of the crankshaft via the pulley bolt. You can remove the bolt with a quick snap of a socket wrench or better yet with an impact driver which won't move the crankshaft.
Hello Mr. Fain,
Your articles are very informative. Now I know what tell my husband to do when my timing belt goes.
Hub concept is a good example for my trend research "Connection" beyond FaceBook.
Good luck,
NMF
Hey All, been following these instructions and things are going good. I'm replacing the oil pump o-ring. The Haynes manual says to fill the driven rotor cavity with petrolem jelly and bolt back on. Has anyone done this? Does this sound right? I'm assuming this primes the oil pump (or something). Not sure I want this stuff floating around in my engine.
Thanks for any feed back.
Great post.
JustGeorge
No problem with the petro-jelly or use just a little grease.
Thanks Hardlymoving,
I'll try this. Does the jelly present any problems in the oil? Should I do an oil change to get this out of the system?
Thanks again
JustGeeorge,
It's such a small amount, it won't do any harm at all.
Thanks for the reply. I when ahead and changed the oil just to be sure.
Can I ask one more question?
This is a 2001 Solara, 2.2L with 209,000 miles. I replaced the timing belt and water pump 40,000 miles ago, but put in a new belt this time as I thought this was a cheap enough task while I had everything apart. I replaced the oil pump o-ring, shaft seal, cam shaft seal and crank shaft seal (just to be sure).
This morning I put everything back together and started the engine. The oil leak is gone and that's good news. The engine is running nice and smooth with no noise. But now I'm noticing a slight change in the dash board engine coolant temperature gauge, The gauge seems to rise faster than normal and reaches the mid point on the gauge and stays there. Normally the gauge would have been at about the 1/3 rd and usually took about 5 minutes to reach this level. The engine appears to reach the 1/2 way point in about 2 minutes. But the engine appears to be running fairly normal with no noise. I've driven the car for about 30 miles since.
Any ideas what might be causing this issue?
Thanks again.
JustGeorge,
We're transitioning from Winter to Spring so if the outside temperature is warmer than normal then the car won't take so long to warm up as compared to freezing conditions.
I was think that also. I normally don't pay as much attention to the gauge when it's warm out. I'll continue to drive it for a while and see.
Thanks for your help.
I just wanted to say thanks. After about 80 miles everything seems to be back to normal. I'm hoping for another 60,000 miles on this car.
Your posting is great and saved me lots of time.
Thanks again.
George
JustGeorge,
Good to learn that everything turned out okay. FYI - if your concerned about the cooling, consider replacing the thermostat with a new gasket. It's cheap insurance and simple to do. If you going to do it, use the Toyota Red Coolant. It's better for the cooling system. I've replaced to many radiators when the owner had their car serviced by a shop that replaced the Toyota coolant with the universal green stuff made by everyone. I'm guessing it creates a PH imbalance and eats away at the radiator's aluminum core.
Hey, hardlymoving.
Thanks for an excellent tutorial.
I'm just after a minor clarification. Image (d) shows the breaker bar secured against the ground, though it appears to be angled at about 7 o'clock. I assume the crankshaft pulley bolt is loosened by turning it counter-clockwise, and that the crankshaft rotates in a clockwise direction. If this is the case, should the breaker bar be angled at about 5 o'clock? Just visualizing the steps before I get started.
Thanks again for the walkthrough, it's top notch!
-Leo
timing belt broke on me so i could not apply paint marks to cam and crank. got crank aligned, but i cant see front of cam sprocket to align marks. is there reference marks on the camshaft itself???
LeoWA,
You are correct. The breakerbar should be at the 5 o'clock position if using the ground to secure the bar... not at the 7 o'clock as show in the picture. And yes, the engine rotates clockwise.
Excellent. Thanks for your help.
Ryan,
The front camshaft sprocket has a small alignment hole as depicted in the schematic. And you are correct, it's hard to see. If you detach the power steering return hose and bend it out of the way, it may make it easier to see after you've removed the side engine mount.
thanks for your help finally got it aligned rotated it twice and it lines up perfectly, but there is still a little too much slack, what do i do about this? I made sure the belt is routed correctly also.
Ryan,
Tighten the belt on the right side by rotating the camshaft pulley counter clockwise and then allow the belt tensioner to remove any excess slack.
Preparing to change the timing belt on our 2000 5S FE 95K mi.
Will be changing water pump as well & was told to change the
cam & crank seals. Should I change the oil pump "o" ring also. In addition are there any special tools needed to remove the old seals?
Thanks
Tarame269,
For the camshaft you'll need a pulley holder tool than you can buy at harborfreight for around $10. Hard part is seating the new cam seal since there's little side room. You can make you're own seating tool by cutting a piece of PVC piping that's the diameter of the seal. Should be able to use the same tool for the oil pump sprocket as well. Your decision if you want to replace the oil pump seal. I generally don't bother to replace the seal anymore on my car until I detect a leak from the bottom of the timing belt cover. If any of the seals are shot, I'll just do another timing belt job since I've done so many I can do it fast.
I just did the timing for the second time. First time I was short on cash and used non toyota dealer parts. They were asin but not the same evidently. 1 year later bad noises. Water pump... Redone with all good stuff but had replaced Harmonic Bal. with brand of doorman, Hundreds cheaper. Engine runs with a bit of power loss when driving and engine vibration at 35mph+. Is it the bal. or have I done something wrong with slack in timing or does the red coolant swell the oil seal rubber when exposed. There was coolant all over, nasty stickiness. I tried hard to get this right the second time. Now I'm just at a wonder and mad at the wasted effort. What's your take?
Jeremy,
Asin is a OEM Japanese supplier so I'm surprised to learn of the water pump failure. I've never, ever replaced the harmonic balancer on a 4cyl 5SFE. I've used Doorman replacement parts with no problem as well. I suggest you look for other sources of your problem. Perhaps you need new plugs, wires, fuel filter, engine mounts, etc. If you didn't put your timing belt on correctly, your check engine light would go on and stay on.
Regards,
Yes, all but engine mounts. I forgot to add that the new harmonic bal. was like 3 lbs. heavier and solid cored. It was looking diff. from the get go. On the old pump the bearing went bad, my mech. buddy said the timing belt was too tight (not likely) or was just a fluke bad part. I have dropped about $480 in improvement parts all over and the timing. I am going to tear into the timming cover thurs. and take a look see. No one at the dealer, service and otherwise knew if the red coolant would swell or destroy the oil seals. I have inspected all engine mounts and no tears but minimal cracking, real small ones. Huff, I even removed and retorqued all wheel lugnuts, engine mounts, harmonic bal. and spark plugs. I check fuel pressure and its almost perfect with spec. Oiy what else can shimmy an engine and give power loss where I had no problems before even with the angry water pump chatting it up under the T-cover. I thought I knew this car pretty well. I recommended it to friends back in the day and we all have learned it inside and out. I think this one may be on the dealer to solve soon.
Jeremy,
Work backwards. Replace the new harmonic balancer (HB) with either the old HB or one from a junkyard then see how the engine runs. If no improvement, start by replacing the rear engine mount ... they tend to go first. Fuel pressure may be okay until you floor it ... perhaps a bad fuel filter ... even if new. Disconnect ignition wire one at a time and listen for a drop in idle. If no drop, something is wrong with the ignition for that cylinder. While the engine is running, tap each fuel injector with a small hammer and listen for any change in engine rpm's. If there's a change, its a bad injector.
Hi hardly moving,
I am a mechanic, i have done 2 of these timing in belts in the last 2 days and i've had a problem!
I notice on removal of the top cover that the tensioner adjustment range is maxed out with the genuine timing belt. We use gates belts(correct to the specs of a OE belt) at work, fitment of these belts also maxes out the range of the tensioner but doesn't seem to take out all the slack! I have resorted to fitting a 162t belt to overcome this problem and have been successful.
Can you enlighten me on this?
Hello Harry,
Never had the problem you've described with the tensioner adjustment range 'maxing out'. Only thing I can think of is that whoever did the last belt replacement also replaced either tensioner or idler pulley with the wrong one with a smaller diameter; hence the excess stack.
HELP!!! For days now, I am unable to get the crankshaft pulley bolt off my 93 camry v6 xle. I have tried breaker w socket against frame and bump ignition key a second. Also, tried 2 diff impact wrench, elec impact from harbor Frt and air at 150psi. I have not found a place to "jam" ring gear??
If anyone has ideas please post and email psjtom at yahoo com.
Hello Tom,
Solution 1:
This problem has happened to me once on a Honda V6. Honda Crank bolts are notorious for being over torqued - up to 180 lbs. Rather than spending a half day trying to figure out what tool to get and use, I just went to a local auto repair shop and told them my problem; "Hi .... I'm in the process of replacing my timing belt and I can't get the damn crankshaft bolt removed - could you help me with your impact gun?" Believe me, most independently own shops will help you. If they agree and do it for you, offer to pay for their work. Most of the time, they won't charge - call it professional courtesy.
Solution 2:
Re-try the bump ignition but jump the battery from another car. The extra amps from the other battery will provide more juice to you starter motor to get the extra torque needed to twist off the bolt. Your problem may be your battery is too weak.
Also Tom, you can apply heat via a propane torch on the bolt before using the impact driver. Only problem is you can potentially damage the crankshaft seal - unless you intend to replace it.
The starter cranks great.. tried it 7-8 times already but the breaker n bolt actually prevents motor from turning. Un believable. I will try more leverage w long pipe but just need something to stop motor from turning.
I'm not sure where and how to do that? Help? Where can I get access to the "ring gear", supposed to be easily according to Haynes repair manual.
HM, Thanks much for your help. After spending whole weekend unable to take off the bolt, even with a new 900ft lb torque impact wrench, I decided to have the car towed to a professional mechanic. He quoted $140 to replace the pulley. So my DIY attempts on this pulley for last two weeks failed but I will try something else.
went the extra mile, replaced timing belt, cam seal & crank seals (mfg by toyota). Water pump,Oil pump seal & o-ring (after market), my wife used her car for (2) weeks & oil
leak started (coming out from the bottom of timing cover) - Frustrated.
Will get started taking timing belt covers off tomorrow after
work. Will assess cause & yes if new timing belt is oil saturated will again replace it. Any suggestions?
Hello Tarame,
Could be that the replacement seal was defective (meaning not your fault), or one of the seals was not seated properly or perhaps the 32 mm nuts that hold your valve cover down is loose. Since the 5SFE is canted towards the firewall, a loose valve cover allows oil to leak and migrate to the area around the power steering pump. This may give the illusion that an oil leak is coming from the timing belt cover but in reality from the valve cover.
94 celica gt 2.2 5sfe. i replaced the timing belt, crankshaft/camshaft seal, oil pump 0-ring and seal, new valve cover seal and silicone on half-moon and new distributor o-ring. no leak at idle but after 2 days of driving, it started to leak again at front cover. replaced oil pump seal/gasket again. it leaked again/ bad pcv? please advise.
John,
How's the fluid level of your power steering pump? If okay, then you'll have to take off the TB covers to find the source of the oil leak. Before you replaced the oil pump seal a 2nd time, was it leaking? Any scratches accidently made on the shafts that contact the oil seals? If so, you won't have a perfect seal.
Replaced both cam and crank seals including oil pump, resealed valve coverand installed new pcv. No more leak woot woot.
Hello John,
Glad things worked out. Live and learn. Nothing more satisfying than doing it yourself. Read my other DIY articles and your Celica will run like new. BTW, the Celica isn't mechanically that much different than the Camry.
Hi, I have a 92 Camry 2.2 that broke a camshaft. I decided to replace the engine but was wondering if the 2.2 from a 95 Celica will work. I also plan on replacing the timing belt and water pump on it. Would you recommend using Gates waterpumps? They are a lot cheaper than most other brands.
jvnguyen76,
The 92 Camry and the 95 Celica both use the same engine; that being the 5SFE. So an engine swap should be no problem. However, some external components from the Camry engine may have to be transferred over to the Celica engine such as the intake and exhaust manifold, ignition system, etc. along with everything else that's attached to it.
Gates is a reputable major auto parts manufacturer/supplier for many auto makers including Honda. So don't worry, a Gates waterpump won't give you any problems.
ok i have question about the tensioner spring. i bought new tensioner idler and guide and it came with 2 springs. one says its for 1999-2001 camry and the other says its for 1992-1998 camry. i have a 1998 camry and the spring that came off it is same as the one that says its for the 1999-2001 camry. do i put exact one back in or put the one in that says for 1992-1998 camry? much appreciated and thanks for your easy to follow tutorials!!!
oh and just to clarify this is first time anybody has been inside timing cover since it came from factory. i find it hard to think factory put wrong spring in. thanks again!
Hello Benny,
I have had no problems with belt replacements jobs where the original spring was not replaced. But to answer your question, I believe the 92-98 springs were produced before 1999 and are excess inventory still up for sale. The 5SFE engine, with respect to the timing belt and components, went through no major changes since its introduction. The important thing is that the new timing belt is tight on the opposite side of the tensioner pulley and that the pulley moves freely on the backing plate to allow the spring to apply the correct belt tension before torquing down the tensioner pulley bolt.
thank you for answering. i just did quick search on amazon for the spring to get pic and its asking for my body code which i dont know. the 2 choices are SXV2 and MCV2 and i have no idea where to find this. its probable not that big of deal but i figured i might as well put right one in. its just wierd to me that the one that came out of car doesnt match the spring that says it goes for my year model. not that much of difference in springs cept for one is lil longer than other, like 1/8 inch. and one has kinda of a V hook on ends and the other is rounded and thicker. but thank you for your help. i think im just gonna replace the one that came out with the new one that is just like it even though the package says its for 99-01 and mine is 98.
Benny,
I'm a little confused. The MC prefix for MCV2 pertains to the Toyota 1MZFE V6 3.0 liter engine if I'm not mistaken.
I have a 4 cyl 2.2 Liter 5S-FE 1998 camry. i bought on ebay a dayco "timing belt component kit" which contains
1) "85301 camshaft belt tensioner"
2) "85302 camshaft belt idler"
3) "85806 tensioner spring"
4) "85810 tensioner spring"
that is what is listed on the box as the contents. the springs are in individual packages inside the box. one package says its for "camry 2.2L 1992-1998" (which is my car) but it DOES NOT look like the old spring i took off. the other spring package says its for "camry & camry solara 2.2L 1999-2001" (which is NOT my car) but it DOES look like the old spring i took off. now the spring that is listed above in your tutorial looks like the spring i took off my car and its in the package that says its for 99-01. I copy and paste it below.
OES Genuine T-Belt Tensioner Spring for select Toyota models OES Genuine T-Belt Tensioner Spring for select Toyota models
Amazon Price: $3.27
also on each package it says "IMPORTANT! USE ONLY ON:" then it list vehicles. i would'nt think it would matter a whole lot cuz there's not much difference between the 2 springs but then again im not sure. LOL sorry if this sounds confusing, I'm starting to confuse myself. i wish i could just show you pictures of these packages and springs. I hope i clarified myself a little better. and like i said before this is first time anybody has been inside the timing cover so its not like somebody put wrong spring in after it rolled out of factory. also the spring in package that says it fits my car is little bit longer and thicker than the old spring i took off my car. OK im done rambling on LOL. any input on this matter would be greatly appreciated. thank you so much!
ok i found some links with pictures. it is a dayco 84058 kit.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DAC-84058/?rtype
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dayco-84058-Timing-
the gold spring with the kind of V hook on each end is the same one that came off my car. but its the other silver one with the more of a round hook on each end that says it fits my car. so as you can see im stumped on what to do.
its a dayco 84058 kit. forgot to mention that.
Benny,
I see no problem with either spring ... they both look the same length and serve the same purpose. Once the tensioner bolt has been tightened, the spring has done its job. The V6 doesn't use a spring at all.
LOL oh wow i didnt think about after the pulley is tightened down. your right it wouldnt matter. im just thinking way too much about this whole procedure as i dont wanna mess anything up. but i do thank you for your input and your tutorials have helped me greatly in this adventure. THANK YOU!!!
wish i could do this... I just had the timing chain replaced on my TSX. I thought the timing chain's were supposed to last forever but apparently mine was stretched out. The tension-er's were maxed out and there was still some slack in the chain. $1400 bucks later and my baby is purring like a kitten. Wish I could have done the job myself and saved some cheddar..
Hello Jennie Demario,
The Acura TSX's chain should last the life of the car ... unless you don't change the oil or let the car warm up. Start using synthetic motor oil now that you've spent some money on a new chain.
hello hardlymoving, ive been working on a timing belt on a 93 toyota camry xle, ive spent three or so half days lining up the cam and crank marks and getting the number one on top dead center conpression, and it would not start, ive took the belt of the cam three or four times, so tonight getting dark out side i took the belt off the cam again found the cam mark with a mirror and flash light made shure it was right like before and went to slip the belt back on again but the teeth were half off like earlyer today, this time insted of moving the cam a bit to line the teeth up i moved the crank back,and turned it 360, the crank was in between 5 and 10 deg, and it finaly started, does this sound normal? thanks Louis,,
Kuso66,
If your check engine light has not come on with an error code of crankshaft position out of alignment, then your timing alignment is should be okay.
I just installed the Dayco timing belt/waterpump kit on my camery. It ran like a charm for about a week. It then developed a rattling sound near the area of the water-pump that occurs between 1500 to 2100 rpm when the engine is cold. It disappears when it warms up. It still runs great. I have heard of this problem before with others. The thoughts that come to mind are the tension loosened on the timing belt, the water pump and could it be cavatation from the wp impellers?? I don't know what to think. Do you have any ideas? It sounds great when it warms up.
Hello Hamthrac,
If the problem only occurs during warm up, then its either your tensioner or idler pulley gone bad. If they're new, then one of them unfortunately is defective. When the engine warms up and heat transfers to these bearings, the lubricant/grease inside the pulley begins to lubricate the bearings and the noise will either dissipate or go away. Lack of lubrication to the bearings may be caused by a defective pulley or oil seal leakage. I have not yet encountered a defective water pump bearing. The way to check is to spin the pump pulley with your hand and feel for any points where the there's drag. Unfortunately, you'll have to remove the timing belt again to check these parts.
Dear Hardlymoving,
I've seen the question asked here a few times already with no definitive answer from you: Is the crankshaft bolt standard thread (lefty loosey/righty tighty) or opposite? I bought a Craftsman electric impact wrench (350 ft lbs torque) for this job and the darned thing wont budge! I tried holding the pulley with a strap wrench and using a breaker bar on the crank bolt and the strap wrench broke. Where is the access to the ring gear on the flywheel so I can try to keep the engine from turning with a new pry bar from Harbor Freight Tools? I found a small threaded hole in the front of the transmission bell housing. Does Toyota make a special tool that fits into there to lock the flywheel? This is a '96 Camry and all of the other steps went as planned so far. Thanks for any help you can provide.
i wedged a screwdriver in the teath of the trans axel and it worked.
Thanks!
I went to my local Toyota dealer this morning and spoke with one of the tech's. He confirmed RH thread on the bolt and suggested removal of the starter to access the ring gear. Locked it with a pry bar then used a 4' "cheater" bar on the bolt and...voila!
Robert13,
I just got tired of using breaker bars and trick methods on removing crank pulleys and bought myself a Milwaukee M18 Battery powered 1/2" impact driver. The thing retails for over $700 but has made my life so much easier with timing belt and suspension jobs where large nuts and bolts under high torque must be removed. It puts out 450 lbs of torque and hasn't let me down. Honda V6 pulley bolts are real tough ... around 180 lbs.
Gefforyt 20 months ago
Very Nice, love the detail. I noticed the time you give for replacement which includes water pump and seals. Our shop charges 5.0 hours to do this job. Looks like we are right on target with everyone else. Our experienced techs can do this in about 4 hours as long as everything goes according to plan. But does it ever?????